Zabin Industries: Selection Guide

SELECTION GUIDE: Rules

Introduction |

There is no perfect thread for all applications, however, there is a perfect thread for the specific application. In order to select the right thread for a specific application, there are three elements you should consider:

Fiber Type
Thread Construction
Thread Size

Most people who are involved in the selection of thread make their decision based on one or all of the following reasons:

Sewability (Processability)
Seam Performance (Seam strength, seam durability, etc.)
Seam Appearance (Color, color fastness, stitch appearance, etc.)
Availability (Is the product available to meet my needs?)
Cost (Cost includes both the price and the hidden costs associated with the above)

The Thread Application Guides are intended to help you ask important questions about thread and then guide you in the selection of the best fiber type, thread selection, and thread size for a specific application. Sales Representatives and Technical Service Team are also available to answer specific questions about thread application and share with you their experience of what is the best thread to use.

Example One of Thread Application and Selection

Let's say you are making a men's dress shirt or ladies blouse and the fabric is light-weight and susceptible to seam puckering. You know that automatic sewing equipment will be used on some operations and thread breakage is common on these machines. You also would like the thread to match the fabric it is being sewn in to and have good color fastness characteristics. What thread type and size would you recommend?

Looking at the Thread Selection Charts (see list above) you will find the following:

Sewability Questions:
Seam Puckering?	Cotton Wrapped Core or Polyester Wrapped Core
Are there any Automatic Multi-directional Lockstitch Machines?	Cotton Wrapped Core or Polyester Wrapped Core
Seam Appearance Questions?
Color fastness?	Polyester or Vat Dyed Cotton
Thread Application & Size Questions?
Light Weight?	Thread Size T-18, T-21, T-24,T-26 (Shirt, Blouses, & Tops)

Looking under the Fabric Weights & Thread Sizes section, you will find that for 2 to 4 oz. goods, you would generally use a Tex 16, 18, 21, or 24 thread size.

If you read the description under Corespun Thread Construction, it says corespun threads:

Sew on all types of sewing equipment with minimum sewing problems.
Sew on automatic multidirectional sewing machines.
Have a higher strength per size than spun polyester threads. (Allows the use of a smaller thread size to help minimize seam puckering. See our Technical Service Bulletin #3 on Minimizing Seam Pucker.)
Have a fibrous surface giving a soft hand, low sheen appearance.
Have a high elongation for greater seam strength and seam elasticity.
PW Core threads have very good color fastness, chemical resistance & enzyme resistance.
They are less expensive than cotton wrapped core.

Therefore the correct selection would be a T-18 or T-24 Poly Wrapped (PW) Core thread.

Example Two of Thread Application and Selection

You are making a Tee Shirt that is primarily sewn with a overedge stitch construction. You want a thread with good chemical resistance and a thread should be as inexpensive as possible.

Sewability Questions:
Overedge & Coverstitch?	Spun or Textured
Seam Performance?
Chemical Resistance?	Polyester
Thread Application & Size Questions?
Light Weight?	Thread Size T-18, T-21, T-24,T-27 (Shirt, Blouses, & Tops)
Textured Thread Construction:
High "fluff" thread for excellent seam coverage and seam elasticity. Lowest purchase price. Textured Polyester - for knit garments like Tee Shirts, fleece.

Therefore T-18 Textured Polyester thread would be recommended. A T-21 Spun Polyester might be required if there are any sewing operations requiring greater ply security like sewing on a pocket with a single needle lockstitch machine.

Distributors of