SELECTION GUIDE: Apparel - Wovens    
The threads below are the most common thread types and sizes used by manufacturers around the world.
  • #1 Selection should be used where there are special requirements, such as a) minimizing thread breakage and restitched seams; b) for sewing special fabrics that are susceptible to excessive eam puckering; and c) where quality seaming is a must.
  • #2 Selection should be used where sewing requirements are not as difficult and cost is the major consideration.

The recommendations listed below include the most common thread type & size used for a particular sewn product. In many cases, other thread types are sometimes used for button sewing, button holing, blindstitching, and other special requirements like overdyeing, etc.

 
 
Garment Fabric Wt. #1 Thread Selection
Where SEAM QUALITY Is Critical		 #2 Thread Selection
Where PRICE POINT Is the Major Consideration
Blouse X-Lt T-18 Perma Core™ T-21 Spun Poly
Blouse Lt-Med T-24 Perma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Boxer Short Lt All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™
Alternative Lopper & Serging Threads: T-18 Wildcat Plus™		 All Operations: T-27 Spun Poly
Alternative Looper & Serging: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Coverall/Overall Hvy Topstitching:T-60, T-80 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Loopers & Serging: T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
*CW Core for Wash-down Look		 Topstitching:T-60, T-80 Spun Poly
Loopers & Serging: T-40 Spun Poly
Denim-Jacket Hvy Topstitching:T-60, T-80, T-105  (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Loopers & Serging: T-60, T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
*CW Core for Wash-down Look		 Topstitching:T-90, T-105 Core (Perma Core™)
Loopers & Serging: T-60, T-40 Spun Poly
Denim-Jean Med Topstitching:T-60, T-80 (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Loopers & Serging: T-60, T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Alternative Looper: T-40, T-60 Spun Poly or Magic™
*CW Core for Wash-down Look		 Topstitching:T-60, T-80 Core (Perma Core)
Loopers & Serging: T-60, T-40 Spun Poly
Alternative Looper: T-40, T-60 Magic™
Denim-Jean Hvy Topstitching:T-60, T-80, T-105 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Loopers & Serging: T-60, T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Alternative Looper: T-60, T-90 Spun Poly or Magic™
*CW Core for Wash-down Look		 Topstitching:T-90, T-105, T-120 Core (Perma Core™ )
Loopers & Serging: T-60, T-40 Spun Poly
Alternative Looper: T-40, T-60 Magic™
Dress Skirt Lt T-24 Perma Core™ T-21, T-27 Spun Poly
Dress Skirt Med T-30 Perma Core™ T-21, T-40 Spun Poly
Jacket-Casual Lt T-24 erma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Jacket-Casual Med T-30, T-40 Perma Core™ T-40 Spun Poly
Jogging Suit Lt T-24 Perma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Microfiber Lt T-18 or T-24 Perma Core™ T-21 Spun Poly
Microfiber Med T-30 Perma Core™ T-27, T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Leather		 Med T-40 Perma Core™ T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Leather		 Hvy Top Stitching: T-60 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core ™*)
Serging: T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core ™*)
*CW Core for Added Needle Heat Protection		 Topstitching:T-60, T-80 Spun Poly
Serging:T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Overcoat		 Med T-30, T-40 Perma Core™ T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Overcoat		 Hvy Topstitching:T-60 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Serging: T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
*CW Core for Added Needle Heat Protection		 Topstitching:T-60 Spun Poly
Serging: T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Parka		 Hvy Topstitching:T-60 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Serging: T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
*CW Core for Added Needle Heat Protection		 Topstitching:T-60, T-80 Spun Poly
Serging: T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Raincoat		 Med T-24, T-30 Perma Core™ T-27, T-40 Spun Poly
Outerwear-
Ski Suit		 Hvy Topstitching:T-60 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Serging: T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
*CW Core for Added Needle Heat Protection		 Topstitching:T-60, T-80 Spun Poly
Loopers & Serging: T-40 Spun Poly
Overalls Med Topstitching:T-40, T-60 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
Serging: T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™*)
*CW Core for Added Needle Heat Protection		 Topstitching:T-60 Spun Poly
Loopers & Serging: T-40 Spun Poly
Pajamas Lt T-24 Perma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Pants - Casual Med Topstitching:T-40 Perma Core™ 
Alternative Loopers & Serging: T-40, T-27 Spun Poly		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Serging: T-27 Spun Poly
Pants - Dress Lt Top Stitching: T-24 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™)
Serging: T-21 Spun Poly or T-18 Wildcat Plus™		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Serging: T-21 Spun Poly or T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Pants - Dress Med Topstitching:T-24, T-30 Perma Core™
Serging: T-21 Spun Poly or T-18 Wildcat™		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Serging: T-21 Spun Poly or T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Pants - Chinos/Khakis Med Topstitching:T-40 Perma Core™
Serging: T-27 Spun Poly 		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Loopers & Serging: T-27 Spun Poly
Robe - Terry Cloth Med T-24, T-30 Perma Core™ Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Loopers & Serging: T-27 Spun Poly or T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Shirt - Casual Lt Topstitching:T-24 Perma Core™
Serging: T-21 Spun Poly		 Topstitching:T-27 Spun Poly
Serging Alternative: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Shirt - Casual Med Topstitching:T-30, T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™)
Serging: T-27 Spun Poly or T-18 Wildcat Plus™
*CW Core for Wash-down Look		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Serging Alternative: T-27 Spun Poly or T-24  Wildcat Plus™
Shirt - Dress X-Lt T-18 Perma Core™ T-21 Perma Spun
Shirt - Dress Lt T-24 Perma Core™ T-27 Perma Spun
Shirt - Insulated Med Topstitching:T-30, T-40 Core (Perma Core™ or D-Core™)
Serging: T-27 Spun Poly or T-18 Wildcat Plus™
*CW Core for Wash-down Look		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Serging Alternative: T-27 Spun Poly or T-24  Wildcat Plus™
Sport Jacket Med T-24 Perma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Stretch Woven Lt - Med T-24, T-30 Perma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Suit Coat Med T-24 Perma Core™ T-27Spun Poly
Swimsuit - Mens & Boys Lt Topstitching:T-24 Perma Core™
Serging:T-21 Spun Poly or T-24 Wildcat Plus™		 Topstitching:T-27 Spun Poly
Serging: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Swimsuit - Mens & Boys Med Topstitching:T-24 Perma Core™
Serging: T-35 Wildcat Plus™		 Topstitching:T-40 Spun Poly
Serging: T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Vest Lt T-24 Perma Core™ T-27 Spun Poly
Wind Breaker Lt T-24 Perma Core™ T-21, T-27 Spun Poly
 
  Thread Brand Legend
Brand Name Generic Thread Type Description
Perma Core™ PW Core Polyester Wrapped, Polyester Core
D-Core™ CW Core Cotton Wrapped Polyester Core
Perma Spun™, Excell™, Bravo™ Spun Poly Spun Polyester
Magic™ Air Entangled Air Entangled Polyester
Wildcat Plus™ Textured Poly Textured(bulked) Polyester
 
  General Guide to Thread Tex Size by Fabric Weight
TEX SIZE: is the gram weight of 1000M of greige yarn. The larger the Tex Size, the heavier the Thread Size.
 
Thread Tex Size Oz./Sq. Yd. Seam Construction Weight
Tex 16, 18, 21 2-4 Oz. Extra Light
Tex 24, 27, 30 4-6 Oz. Light
Tex 30, 35, 40, 50 6-8 Oz. Medium
Tex 50, 60, 70 8-10 Oz. Medium Heavy
Tex 60, 80, 90, 105, 120 10-14 Oz. Heavy
 

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