Zabin Industries: Selection Guide

SELECTION GUIDE: Apparel - Knits

The threads below are the most common thread types and sizes used by manufacturers around the world.

#1 Selection should be used where there are special requirements, such as a) minimizing thread breakage & seam failures; b) for sewing special fabrics that are susceptible to excessive needle holes; and c) where quality seaming is a must.
#2 Selection should be used where sewing requirements are not as difficult and cost is the major consideration.

The recommendations listed below include the most common thread type & size used for a particular sewn product. In many cases, other thread types are sometimes used from button sewing, button holing, blindstitching, and other special requirements like overdyeing, etc.

Garment	Fabric Wt.	#1 Thread Selection Where SEAM QUALITY Is Critical	#2 Thread Selection Where PRICE POINT Is the Major Consideration
Activewear - Lycra Pants, Shorts, Shirts	Lt-Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Best Stretch™	All Operations: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Activewear - Tops (Women)	Lt-Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-24 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21, T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Dresses or Skirts	Lt-Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-35 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Fleece-Sewat Shirt/Pants	Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-40 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Intimates - Bras / Foundations	Lt-Med	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-24, T-30 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch:T-24, T-35 Best Stretch™	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Intimates - Camasoles, Slips, Pajamas	Lt-Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Intimates - Panties	Lt	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-24 Wildcat Plus™
Pants - Stretch (Womens)	Lt	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Best Stretch™	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-24 Wildcat Plus™
Shirts-Polo Golf	Lt-Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™	All Operations: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24 Wildcat Plus™
Sleepwear - Night Gown	Lt - Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21, T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-24 Wildcat Plus™
Sportswear - Football Pants	Hvy	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-40, T-60 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-35 Best Stretch™	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-40, T-60 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18, T-24 Wildcat Plus™
Sportwear - Jersey	Med	All Operations: T-40 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-35 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-40 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Sweaters	Lt	All Operations: Sweater Looping Yarn	All Operations: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Swimwear - Mens & Boys	Lt-Med	Top Stitch or Zig Zag: T-24, T-40 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Best Stretch™	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-40 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
Swimwear - Womens	Lt-Med	Top Stitch or Zig Zag: T-24, T-40 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24 Best Stretch™	Zig Zag Lockstitch: T-40 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Wildcat Plus™
T-Shirts	Lt	All Operations: T-21 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Terry Bath Robes	Lt	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Underwear - "A" Undershirt	Lt	All Operations: T-21 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Underwear - Briefs	Lt	All Operations: T-21 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-21 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-18 Wildcat Plus™
Underwear - Thermal	Med	All Operations: T-24 Perma Core™ Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24 Wildcat Plus™	All Operations: T-27 Spun Poly Alternative Overedge & Coverstitch: T-24, T-35 Wildcat Plus™

Thread Brand Legend

Brand Name	Generic Thread Type	Description
Perma Core™	PW Core	Polyester Wrapped, Polyester Core
Perma Spun™, Excell™, Bravo™	Spun Poly	Spun Polyester
Wildcat Plus™	Textured Poly	Textured (bulked) Polyester
Best Stretch™	Textured Nylon	Textured (bulked) Nylon

General Guide to Thread Tex Size by Fabric Weight
TEX SIZE: is the gram weight of 1000M of greige yarn. The larger the Tex Size, the heavier the Thread Size.

Thread Tex Size	Oz./Sq. Yd.	Seam Construction Weight
Tex 16, 18, 21	2-4 Oz.	Extra Light
Tex 24, 27, 30	4-6 Oz.	Light
Tex 30, 35, 40, 50	6-8 Oz.	Medium

Distributors of